PALESTINE

 The term ‘Palestine’, originally applied to the territory of Israel’s foes, the Philistines, was first used by Herodotus as a designation of S{S South, southern} Syria. In the form of Palaestina, it was also used by the Romans. The older term ‘Canaan’ has a similar history. In the el-*Amarna letters (14th century bc{bc before Christ}) Canaan was limited to the coastal plains, then with the Canaanite conquests of the interior it was applied to all the lands W{W West, western} of the Jordan Valley. The terms ‘land of Israel’ (1 Sa. 13:19) and ‘the land of promise’ (Heb. 11:9 are associated with the Israelites in the same area, the latter usually connected with the area from Dan to Beersheba, N{N North, northern} of the Negeb. The Israelite settlement of two-and-a-half tribes E{E East, eastern; Elohist} of the Jordan seems to have resulted from unforeseen circumstances and the hold on that side of the valley appears to have been generally precarious. After the division of the kingdom, the name Israel was usually given to the N{N North, northern} realm. In the Middle Ages, the term ‘the Holy Land’ was often adopted (cf.{cf. confer (Lat.), compare} Zc. 2:12).

 

I. The position and highways of Palestine

 

The mediaeval perspective of Jerusalem as the centre of the earth is not so absurd as might be thought, for on the tiny Syrian corridor that unites the world island of Europe, Asia and Africa, the five seas of the Mediterranean, Black Sea, Caspian, Red Sea and the Persian Gulf narrow the greatest land mass of our planet into a single isthmus. All the important continental routes must go across this corridor, and the great sea-routes of antiquity between the Indies and the Mediterranean must in turn be linked by land communications across the Sinai Peninsula. The high mountain chains which run E{E East, eastern; Elohist} from Asia Minor to Kurdistan and the deserts to the S{S South, southern} and E{E East, eastern; Elohist} further help to concentrate the routeways of ‘the Fertile Crescent’, which, sickle-shaped, runs from Palestine and S{S South, southern} Syria to the alluvial valley basins of the Tigris and Euphrates. It is, of course, ‘fertile’ only in comparison with the surrounding desert and mountainous terrain, since most of it is either Mediterranean scrub or steppe. At either end of the Fertile Crescent a great locus of civilization developed in the lower basin of Mesopotamia and the lower Nile Valley respectively, whose fortunes dominated the history of the Near East for almost two millennia.

Three great trade routes have always traversed Palestine. The great Trunk Road, perhaps described in Is. 9:1 as ‘the way of the sea’, runs along the low coast from Egypt to the Vale of Esdraelon. Then it is diverted inland by the Syrian mountains to skirt the W{W West, western} side of the Lake of Galilee, then through the Syrian Gate and central depression to Damascus, where it joins the desert caravan trails across to Mesopotamia. Two other routes are of great antiquity although of lesser importance. The *King’s Highway follows the edge of the Transjordan plateau from the Gulf of Aqabah towards Damascus. It marks a zone of increased rainfall and was followed in part by the Israelites during the Exodus (Nu. 21-22), and all the towns enumerated in Nu. 21; 27-30 lie along it. The watershed of central Palestine is followed by another route, the shortest between Sinai and Canaan. In the N{N North, northern} *Negeb it links an important series of wells, keeping W{W West, western} of the forbidding, barren depressions of the E{E East, eastern; Elohist} Negeb that are still difficult to traverse. It links all the important historic centres from Kadesh-barnea and Beersheba to Hebron, Jerusalem, Shechem and Megiddo. Heavily travelled from the Abramic (Middle Bronze I) period onwards, it was also made famous by the journey of Joshua and his fellow spies. All these routes emphasized the N{N North, northern}-S{S South, southern} alignment of Palestine, which benefited from their fertilizing contacts of trade and culture. But Israel was rarely able to control these highways without upsetting the strategic interests of the great powers that dominated their terminals. Even in Solomon’s day the coastal highway was too tightly controlled by the sea-powers to warrant interference there (1 Ki. 9:11; 10:22; Ezk. 27:17), while Edom was for long Israel’s deadly enemy because it dominated the routes from the Gulf of Aqabah where Israel obtained its copper (Ob. 3).

A number of minor transverse routes have joined these parallel highways. Of these the most important have been: (1) Gaza-Beersheba-Petra; (2) Ashkelon-Gath-Helvan; (3) Joppa-Bethel-Jericho (cf.{cf. confer (Lat.), compare} Jos. 10:6-14) and Joppa-Shechem-Adam-Gilead (Jos. 3:16); (4) Vale of Esdraelon-Megiddo-Gilead. Exposed to coastal sedimentation from the Nile, the coast of Palestine as far as Carmel has been unfavourable for port development, so the chief towns have been route centres at important road junctions, either in the strategic plain of Esdraelon or along the hilly dorsal of Judaea and Samaria. The sea was an unfamiliar medium of communication to the Hebrews (cf.{cf. confer (Lat.), compare} Ps. 107), while the desert was also feared as ‘a land of trouble and anguish’ (Is. 30:6; cf.{cf. confer (Lat.), compare} Dt. 8:15). Perched precariously between them, the Hebrew highlanders sought a protracted aloofness from both environments and their peoples. Thus autonomy of spirit became a major characteristic of the Israelites, despite their nodal position at the hub of the ancient world’s trade routes.

 

II. The geological structure and relief

 

For some 675 km from the borders of Egypt to Asia Minor, the Levant consists of five major zones: (1) the littoral; (2) the W{W West, western} mountain chain (the Judaean-Galilean highlands, Lebanon and Ansariya mountains); (3) the rift valleys (Arabah, Jordan valley, BiqaÔ and Ghôr); (4) the E{E East, eastern; Elohist} mountains (highlands of Transjordan, Hermon and Anti-lebanon); and (5) the deserts of Negeb, Arabia and Syria. But the contrasts between the N{N North, northern} and S{S South, southern} sections of these zones explain the individuality of Palestine. N{N North, northern} of Acre, the mountains rise, abruptly from the sea, limiting the narrow coastal plains to discontinuous stretches but providing the famous harbours of Sidon, Tyre, Beirut, Tripoli and Ras Shamra. The limited hinterlands of each unit have encouraged independent maritime city-states where ‘the families of the Canaanites spread abroad’ (Gn. 10:18). . of Mt Carmel, however, the coast opens into a broad continuous plain, harbourless except for artificial ports erected by  the Philistines and later sea-peoples.

A second contrast is to be found in the Rift Valley sectors. In Syria the BiqaÔ depression is a broad, fertile plain between the lofty ranges of Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon, with wide access to other rolling plains, and studded with historic centres such as Kadesh, Homs and Hamath. To the S{S South, southern}, the depression blocked by recent basaltic lavas narrows into deep gorges before opening into the swamp of Lake Huleh, making N{N North, northern}-S{S South, southern} communication difficult. These features have tended to isolate Palestine from the N{N North, northern} territory.

The rocks of Palestine are notably limestone, volcanics and recent deposits such as marls, gravels and sands. The Rift Valley represents an ancient planetary lineament that is traceable as far as the E{E East, eastern; Elohist} African Lakes. Broadly speaking, it has operated like a hinge, so that the areas to the W{W West, western} of it have been mostly under the sea, whereas the Arabian block has been generally continental. Thus, W{W West, western} of the Rift the rocks are predominantly limestone laid down specially during the Cretaceous and Eocene eras. Some of these are hard and dolomitic (Cenomanian and Eocene), explaining the steep headland of Mt Carmel, the twin mountains of Ebal and Gerizim above Shechem, and generally all the rugged, higher relief of the Judaean-Galilean dorsal. But the Senonian is a soft chalk, easily eroded into gaps and valleys that breach the highlands, notably at Megiddo, the Valley of Aijalon and the moat of Beth-shemesh which separates the Eocene foothills of the Shephelah from the Judaean plateau. These limestones have been upworked along the central dorsal and gently folded in a series of arches which become more complicated farther N{N North, northern} in Samaria and Galilee. They occur, however, horizontal in Transjordan, resting upon the continental block beneath them. The ancient block is exposed in the SE in the high cliffs of the Wadi Arabah and in the Sinai Peninsula. Overlapping them are the so-called Nubian sandstones, whose desert origin prolonged over vast geological periods explains the red colour from which Edom probably derives its name (‘the red’). In the NE, recent basaltic lavas cap the limestones in the broad, undulating plateaux in the land of Bashan, and extending into the Jordan trough around the Lake of Galilee. These weather into the rich soils which attracted to the Galilean shores a high density of population from early times.

Palestine suffers from crustal instability. Volcanic eruptions have continued into historic times, notably in the cases of Harrat en-Nar, SE of the Gulf of Aqabah, which were active as late as the 8th and 13th centuries ad{ad anno Domini}. It is tempting to equate the descriptions of Ex. 19:18 and Ps. 68:8 with volcanic manifestations, but the traditional site of Sinai is in an area of ancient, crystalline rocks where no recent volcanic action has occurred. The fate of Sodom and Gomorrah (Gn. 14:10; 19:23-28) is a memory of some kind of volcanic phenomena, associated probably with the intrusion of sulphurous gas and liquid asphalt. There are also the biblical records of earthquakes (Gn. 19:25; 1 Sa. 14:15; Am. 1:1) and geological faulting (Nu. 16:31-35). All these are associated with the Great Rift Valley of the Jordan and Dead Sea, or with the series of transverse faults that form the Vale of Esdraelon and divide Samaria and Galilee into a complicated series of highland blocks and depressions floored with sediments.

Under the semi-arid conditions, badland relief is typical, especially around the E{E East, eastern; Elohist} and S{S South, southern} rims of the Judaean highlands and the W{W West, western} edge of the Transjordan plateau. Within the deep Jordan valley, soft marls deposited by a lake more extensive than the present Dead Sea have been dissected to form the Ghôr in the middle of the trough, lying at more than 365 m below sea-level. The seasonal wadis that drain into the Arabah trough have also deeply dissected their slopes. Thus the av{av Authorized Version (King James’), 1611} references to the ‘slippery places’ are a characteristic feature of many parts of the Negeb and the Jordan (Dt. 32:35; Pr. 3:23; Je. 23:12; 31:9). Much of the Negeb is a rock waste of hammadas, and direct reference to the wind-borne loessial deposits is made (Ex. 10:20-23; Dt. 28:24; Na. 1:3).

 

III. The climate and vegetation

 

In the Levant three climatic zones may be distinguished: a Mediterranean, a steppe and a desert zone, each with its distinct type of vegetation.

Along the coast as far S{S South, southern} as Gaza, the Mediterranean zone has mild winters (53.6°F, 12°C, mean monthly average for January at Gaza) compared with the severer conditions of the interior hills (Jerusalem 44.6°F, 7°C, in January). But summers are everywhere hot (Gaza 78.8°F, 26°C, in July, Jerusalem 73.4°F, 23°C). The prolonged snow cover of the high Lebanon mountains (Je. 18:14) is exceptional, though snow is not infrequent in the Hauran. Elsewhere it is a rare phenomenon (2 Sa. 23:20). Less than one-fifteenth part of the annual rainfall occurs in the summer months from June to October; nearly all of it is concentrated in winter to reach a maximum in mid-winter. The total amount varies from about 35-40 cm on the coast to about 75 cm on Mt Carmel and the Judaean, Galilean and Transjordan mountains. In the Beersheba area to the S{S South, southern}, and in parts of the Jordan valley and of the Transjordan plateau the climate is steppe, with only 20-30 cm of rain, though temperature conditions are comparable to those of the Judaean hills. The deep trough of the Jordan has sub-tropical conditions with stifling summer heat; at Jericho mean daily maxima remain above 100°F (38°C) from June to September, with frequent records of 110-120°F (43-49°C). The winter, however, has enjoyable conditions of 65-68°F (18-20°C) (January mean daily maximum). In the Negeb, the S{S South, southern} part of the Jordan Valley, and the country E{E East, eastern; Elohist} and S{S South, southern} of the Transjordan steppe the climate is desert, with less than 20 cm of rain a year.

There is no archaeological evidence that climate has changed since biblical times. Near the Gulf of Aqabah, a number of recently excavated Roman gutters still fit the springs for which they were constructed, and wherever the Byzantine wells of the Negeb have been kept clean and in constant use, the water still rises to the ancient levels. Thus the biblical narrative gives a convincing picture of the present climate. Distinction is made between the hot and cold seasons (Gn. 8:22; Am. 3:15), and the inception of the autumn rains is clearly described (Dt. 11:14; Ho. 6:3; Joel 2:23). Variability in the amount and distribution of rainfall is common (Am. 4:7), and the incidence of prolonged drought is recorded on a number of occasions (1 Ki. 17:7; Je. 17:8; Joel 1:10-12, 17-20).

Because of the contrasts of relief, from 1,020 m above sea-level near Hebron, to 390 m below sealevel at the Dead Sea, the flora of Palestine is very rich (about 3,000 vascular *plants) for such a small area. A large proportion of them are annuals. Few districts have ever had dense forests (*Trees), though remnants have been preserved in Mts *Hermon and *Lebanon with their cedars, firs, oaks and pines, and in the biblical Golan (Jaulan), where forests of pine and oak still exist. Lebanon has always been noted for its cedars. The Israelites had their share in deforestation of the Mediterranean woodland that once covered the central dorsal (Jos. 17:18), and today there are no traces of the woodlands that once existed at Bethel (2 Ki. 2:24), Ephraim (Jos. 17:15) and Gilead near the Jordan valley.

Oak forests long existed in Sharon, whose name means forest, but biblical prophecy states that three forested regions were to be turned into sheep pastures, the coastal Sharon, N{N North, northern} Gilead and SE Galilee (see Is. 65:10). The development of pastoralism must be blamed for much of this forest clearance in Palestine (cf.{cf. confer (Lat.), compare} 2 Ki. 3:4). But under Mediterranean conditions ‘the pastures of the wilderness’ are seasonally short-lived, so Rabbi Akiba (c.{c. circa (Lat.), about, approximately} ad{ad anno Domini} 100) observed shrewdly that ‘those who rear small cattle and cut down good trees. . . will see no sign of blessing’. Deterioration of the woodland scrub had gone so far in Palestine before the establishment of the modern state of Israel in ad{ad anno Domini} 1948 that most of the uncultivated land was a dreary expanse of batha, low scrub with open, rock outcrops. Towards the steppe and the desert, the colour of the landscape is governed more by the rocks than the plant cover, with only a few shrubby elements, such as wormwood, broom, saltwort and tufts of xerophytic grasses. Only along the banks of the Jordan is there a dense and wide gallery forest of various willows, poplar, tamarisk, oleander, etc.

But many of the Palestinian hill lands, eroded of their productive terra vessa soils, have been the graveyard of former civilizations, especially with the decay of terrace-cultivation. One estimate is that since Roman times 2,000-4,000 million cubic metres of soil have been worked off the E{E East, eastern; Elohist} side of the Judaean hills, sufficient to make 4,000-8,000 sq. km of good farmland. This threat of soil erosion is possibly alluded to in Jb. 14:18-19, and the easy spread of fire during the summer drought is described (Ps. 83:13-14). These features of Mediterranean instability are recognized in the need for balance and restraint, in a land which lies so precariously between the desert and the sown (Ex. 23:29-30; Pr. 24:30-34). (*Dew, *Rain, *Wind.)

 

IV. Water-supply and agriculture

 

It is not by chance that the names of over seventy ancient sites in Palestine contain the word Ôain, ‘spring’, and another sixty such sites the word béÆr, ‘well’. Apart from the Jordan, a few of its tributaries and four or five small coastal streams that are fed from springs, all the remaining rivers of Palestine are seasonal. Snow-fed streams account for their maximum volume in May-June (Jos. 3:15), but the majority dry up in the hot summer (1 Ki. 17:7; Jb. 24:19; Joel 1:20), notably in the Negeb (Ps. 126:4). With the autumn rains the sudden spate is graphically described (Jdg. 5:21; Mt. 7:27). Thus ‘the fountain of living waters’ was the ideal of the Israelite settler. The invention of a mortar which could be used in the construction of rain-collecting *cisterns (c.{c. circa (Lat.), about, approximately} 1300 bc{bc before Christ}) may well have been a decisive factor in the rapid colonization of the highlands of Judaea by the Israelite settlers. *Wells dug for watering the stock are early alluded to (Gn. 26, etc.) and irrigation was well known (Gn. 13:10). Reservoirs too for the needs of the urban population are frequently mentioned (Ct. 7:4), some fed through imposing rock-cut tunnels (2 Ki. 20:20). The need for water often pointed a moral lesson to the Israelites (Dt. 8:7-10; 11:10-17; 1 Ki. 18; Je. 2:13; 14:22).

Before the rise of the Monarchy at least, the agricultural population of central Palestine; consisted of small land-owners, and the typical produce of the land is described in the presents given by Abigail to David (1 Sa. 25:18). The importance in Judaea of the barley crop rather than wheat because of its low rainfall, and the fame of Carmel for its vines and Ephraim and Galilee for olives, have been justified since biblical times. But droughts tend to introduce debt and servitude, so that despite the ideological democracy envisaged in the jubilee year (Lv. 25), crownlands, large estates and forced labour already appear in the time of Saul (1 Sa. 8:16; 22:7; 25:2). In Transjordan and the Negeb it seems that the pastoral life has been traditionally supplemented by settled agricultural practices wherever wells and oases permitted. But the decline of agriculture has been constantly threatened by over-grazing by sheep and goats, apart from the more catastrophic incursions from the desert.

 

V. The settlements

 

A major problem in the historical geography of Palestine has been the identification of place-names. There are approximately 622 place-names W{W West, western} of Jordan recorded in the Bible. The lists of Tuthmosis III, Sethos I, Rameses II and *Shishak I at Karnak throw some light on Palestinian topography. The Onomasticon of Eusebius and Jerome is another valuable source. The work of R. Reland (1714) paved the way for the modern topographical work of Edward Robinson when he visited Palestine in 1838. He identified 177 place-names, few of which have been subsequently changed. In 1865 the Palestine Exploration Fund was established, and by 1927 about 434 place-names had been located; Conder in particular added 147 new names. A number of these are still disputed, and modern scholarship continues to debate a few of them.

The startling discoveries of Kathleen Kenyon at *Jericho show that there has been a semblance of urban life there since 6000-8000 bc{bc before Christ} with an 8-acre site occupied by some 3,000 inhabitants (*Archaeology). Indeed the Jordan Valley seems to have been from early times an area of dense settlement. N. Glueck notes some seventy sites there, many founded over 5,000 years ago, and over thirty-five of them still inhabited by Israelite times. It was only later that this valley which Lot found so attractive (Gn. 13:10) became more desolate, probably with the advent of malaria. It has been suggested that some of the Tells were artificial mounds built deliberately above the swampy ground, though added to by subsequent settlement. But everywhere water-supply has been the decisive factor of settlement. Fortified towns and castles were built at important perennial springs such as Jericho, Beth-shan and Aphek (famous from the wars of the Israelites with the Philistines). Indeed, it is a corollary that sites with abundant springs have usually had the most continuous settlement from remote times.

Along the coastal plain S{S South, southern} of Carmel settlement has been relatively dense since antiquity, favoured by the ease with which wells could be dug through the sandy soils to the lenticular beds of clay that hold suspended water-tables. But farther N{N North, northern} in the Vale of Sharon and Upper Galilee, where the water-supply is abundant, relatively dense woodland made human occupancy difficult until more recent centuries. In the basins of lower Galilee and Samaria population has for long been dense, scattered in numerous villages, but S{S South, southern} of Jerusalem village sites become fewer and more nucleated, until around Beersheba settlement has been limited to strategic fortified well-sites. In Transjordan the edge of the plateau is marked by a number of fortresses such as Petra, Bozrah (Buseira) and Tophel (Tafileh). Beyond them to the E{E East, eastern; Elohist} is the narrow stretch of agricultural land with its scattered villages along which ran the King’s Highway. Within these patterns of settlement dictated largely by water conditions, the strategic and most important towns have grown up at cross-roads where the proximity of some defile enabled the transverse roads to link with the main N{N North, northern}-S{S South, southern} highways. Such were in biblical times Beersheba, Hebron, Jerusalem, Bethel, Shechem, Samaria, Megiddo, Beth-shan and Hazor. Hence the psalmist could exclaim: ‘He led them by a straight way, till they reached a city to dwell in’ (Ps. 107:7).

 

VI. The regions of Palestine

 

The geographer can create as many regions as there are problems worth studying, so it is absurd to suggest that the delimitation of areas within Palestine has a permanent validity. But certain regional units have appeared again and again in the history of Palestine, and should be recognized. The broad divisions already noted are distinct: the coastal plains, the central hill lands, the Rift Valley, the plateaux of Transjordan and the desert.

The coastal plains stretch for a distance of about 200 km from the borders of Lebanon to Gaza, interrupted by Mt Carmel in the N. To the N{N North, northern} of it, the plain of Asher runs for 40 km to the ancient Ladder of Tyre, where the Galilean hills crowd close to the coast. It played no part in the life of Israel, but to the SE of it the Valley of Jezreel and plain of Esdraelon have been of major significance. Stretching for 50 km into the interior and some 20 km at its widest, this formed the main road from Egypt to Damascus and the N. Along it were situated the strategic centres of Megiddo, Jezreel and Beth-shan, famous in many of Israel’s wars (Jdg. 5; 7:1; 1 Sa. 29:1; 31:12) and the apocalyptic site of the future (Rev. 16:16). S{S South, southern} of Carmel, which shelters the small plain of Dor, is the plain of Sharon with its five great Philistine strongholds of Ekron, Ashdod, Ashkelon, Gath and Gaza, merging E{E East, eastern; Elohist} into the hill lands of the Shephelah, a buffer between Israel and Philistia. These hills were once heavily wooded with sycamores (1 Ki. 10:27; 2 Ch. 1:15; 9:27) and crossed transversely by narrow valleys which witnessed the early struggles of Israel from the times of the Judges to David, notably Aijalon (Jos. 10:10-15; 1 Sa. 14:31); Sorek (Jdg. 16), and Elah (1 Sa. 17:1-2).

The Central Hills run some 300 km from N{N North, northern} Galilee to Sinai, made up of interlocking hills and plateaux. In the S{S South, southern}, Judah has gently undulating folds except in the E{E East, eastern; Elohist}, where the deeply dissected chalky relief of the Wilderness of Judah, or Jeshimon, descends steeply to the Rift Valley. This Judaean plateau runs N{N North, northern} into the hill country of Ephraim with its easy transverse passages, but to the N{N North, northern} the hills of Samaria decrease gently from the Judaean heights of over 1,000 m to an average of just over 300 m in the central basin, in which are situated the biblical sites of Gibeah, Shalem, Shechem and Sychar. Above it tower the heights of Ebal (945 m) and Gerizim (890 m). Together with other fertile basins, Samaria was exposed to outside influences, and its faith early corrupted. N{N North, northern} of the plain of Esdraelon lies Galilee, divided into S{S South, southern} or lower Galilee, which has a similar landscape to the lands of Samaria, and N{N North, northern} or upper Galilee, where the mountains reach over 900 m. A number of basins, notably Nazareth, provide easy passage and rich cultivation between the coast and the Lake area, densely settled in our Lord’s day.

Slicing across Palestine for over 100 km, the Jordan follows the great Rift Valley. Its N{N North, northern} sector is occupied also by the lakes Huleh and Galilee, surrounded by high mountains, notably Hermon, the source of the Jordan (Dt. 3:9; 4:48). Below the basin of Huleh, the Jordan has cut through the basaltic dam that once blocked the depression in a gorge to enter the lake Tiberias or Sea of Galilee 200 m below sea-level. Beyond it the river Yarmuk adds its waters to the Jordan and the valley gradually widens S{S South, southern} towards the Dead Sea trough. S{S South, southern} of the cliffs of ÔAin Khaneizer commences the Arabah, stretching 160 km to the Gulf of Aqabah, a desert dominated by the great wall of the Transjordan tableland. W{W West, western} stretches the desolate hilly relief of the central Negeb and its steppe plains, towards Beersheba. E{E East, eastern; Elohist} over the edge of the Transjordan plateaux extend a series of regions well known in Bible times: the tableland of Bashan dominated E{E East, eastern; Elohist} by the great volcanic caves of Jebel Druze; Gilead situated in a huge oval dome 55 km by 40 km wide and famed for its forests (Je. 22:6; Zc. 10:10); the level steppes of Ammon and Moab; and S{S South, southern} of the Zered valley (Dt. 2:13; Is. 15:7) the faulted and tilted block of Edom with its impregnable strongholds. Beyond to the E{E East, eastern; Elohist} and the S{S South, southern} are the deserts, tablelands of rock and sand, blasted by the hot winds. See also *Jordan, *Negeb, *Sharon, *Zin. For archaeology of Palestine, see *Archaeology and individual sites, for history, see *Canaan, *Israel, *Judah, *Philistines, etc.

 

PalestinePalestine, the territory along the eastern coast of the Mediterranean Sea traditionally known as the land of the Bible. (Refer to map 1 in the section of color maps.)

Name: Besides ‘Palestine’ there are several other designations for this area: the Holy Land, the Promised Land, the land of Canaan, and the land of Israel (Heb.{Heb. Hebrew} eretz ysrael). Ironically the name ‘Palestine’ is derived from the Philistines, the archenemies of the Israelites. Originally a designation for the southern coastal strip where the Philistines had settled in the twelfth century b.c., Palestine became the name for the entire region. The ancient Greek historian Herodotus was the first to use Palaistineµ, the Hellenistic form of Philistia, in the inclusive sense.

After the suppression of the Bar-Kochba revolt in a.d. 135 the Roman emperor Hadrian expunged the name Provincia Judea and substituted Provincia Syria Palaestina or simply Palaestina (Palestine). By a.d. 400 three provinces had been established with the designations Palaestina prima and secunda, west of the Jordan River, and Palaestina tertia, east of the Jordan and north of the Arnon River. The main part of the province of Palestine was in Cisjordan, meaning west of the Jordan, but sections of Transjordan, meaning east of the Jordan, also belonged to the province of Palestine.

After World War I when the British ruled Palestine by mandate, they revived ‘Palestine’ as the official title of the land west of the Jordan. In 1923 the British government divided Transjordan from Cisjordan, making Transjordan an emirate under British sovereignty.

Archaeologists often use the title ‘Palestine’ as a geographical, not a political, designation for the region including modern Israel and the western sector of modern Jordan. Despite perennial disputes over boundaries in the Near East, the areas west and east of the Jordan have much in common with respect to history, geography, and archaeology. ‘Palestine’ serves as a convenient term for all the archaeological periods of the biblical land, while the geographical term ‘Israel’ would be inaccurate; this latter designation did not come into existence until the tenth century b.c.

Geography: Throughout history the political boundaries of Palestine have fluctuated considerably. Broadly described, Palestine is bounded on the north by the foothills of the Anatolian plateau, on the south by the Sinai desert, on the east by the Euphrates (‘the great river’ in the Bible), and on the west by the Mediterranean (‘the great sea’ in the Bible). These boundaries include the modern states of Israel, Jordan, Syria, and Lebanon. In round figures Palestine was no more than five hundred miles long and ninety-five miles wide. In accord with the traditional biblical formula ‘from Dan to Beer-sheba’ Palestine would have been much smaller, about the size of Vermont. Natural boundaries surrounded Palestine on three sides: the desert on the east and south, the Mediterranean on the west. In biblical times the cities were more like villages, small in size and population. The population of either of the two capitals, Samaria and Jerusalem, probably never exceeded thirty thousand inhabitants. According to scholarly estimates, in the first half of the eighth century b.c. the population of the Northern Kingdom was about eight hundred thousand and of the Southern Kingdom about three hundred thousand.

Although Palestine was insignificant in size and poor in natural resources, its strategic location made it a vital region; it was a land bridge for two continents and a crossroad for several nations. Armies and caravans traversed Palestine for centuries. Its geographical position immersed it in the political, commercial, cultural, and military activities of the whole region. Its strategic location also made it vulnerable: Palestine was ruled by a succession of conquerors: Egypt, Assyria, Babylonia, Persia, Greece, Rome, Byzantium, the Moslem caliphates, the Crusaders, the Ottoman Turks, and the British.

Physical and historical geography cannot be separated; they go hand in hand. The former is concerned with the configuration of the terrain; the latter deals with people’s use of the land and the impact of its geography on the life of the people. A country’s geography determines to some degree its history and helps to explain the history. Related phenomena, such as topography, climate, soil, and natural resources, affect a country’s internal history and may influence its international relations.

Palestine’s geographical position between the sea and the desert had a distinct bearing on its history. The unbroken Mediterranean coast’s lack of adequate harbors for anchorage discouraged maritime pursuits. The wilderness on the east made the people of Palestine vulnerable to the incursions of desert raiders.

Climate: Climate influenced the daily life of the people. Palestine is situated in a zone of subtropical climate, characterized by dry summers and rainy winters. Seventy percent of the annual rainfall occurs between November and February. Precipitation varies greatly in different parts of the country; most of the rain falls along the coastal plain. The annual rainfall in Upper Galilee to the north is about 45 inches; in the Negeb to the south about 8 inches. Palestine’s vegetation depends upon the rainfall, but not entirely; dew also plays an important part. Abundant along the coastal plain, especially on Mount Carmel, the dew is a great help to the summer vegetation.

Westerly winds prevail in Palestine, but there is also an unpleasant east wind from the desert to the south and southeast of Palestine; known as the sirocco (Italian), the hamsin (Arabic), and the sharab (Hebrew), it is the ‘east wind’ of the ot{ot Old Testament} (e.g., Gen. 41:6; Exod. 14:21; Isa. 27:8). This oppressive, dust-laden wind blows in the early autumn and late spring and often persists for several days.

Economy: Deuteronomy describes Palestine as ‘a land of wheat and barley, of vines and fig trees and pomegranates,…a land whose stones are iron, and out of whose hills you can dig copper’ (8:8-9). The economy of Palestine was basically agricultural and pastoral. Agriculture was conducted primarily in the north where the chief crops were wheat, barley, olives, grapes, and figs; the breeding of sheep and goats was done mostly in the south. In addition to domestic animals, there were foxes, jackals, hyenas, lizards, snakes, and scorpions. The lions and bears of biblical times are now extinct.

Palestine is not rich in raw materials, except for the iron mines in Transjordan and the copper mines of the Arabah in the south. The mineral products of Palestine are limestone, basalt, and clay. There is gypsum in the mountains of Galilee, sulphur in the environs of Gaza, and glass sand is dug near Beer-sheba.

Geology also had its part to play in the life of the people. The rocks in Palestine are basically limestone, chalk, basalt, and sandstone. The hard limestone makes excellent building stone; the porous limestone, which is the base of soil in Palestine, traps water. The resultant wells and springs are excellent for agriculture.

Five Natural Zones: Between the Mediterranean Sea to the west and the Syrian desert to the east, Palestine is divided into five natural zones running longitudinally, clearly evident on a relief map; they are, from west to east, the coastal plain, the Shephelah, the central mountain range, the Jordan Valley, and the Transjordan plateau.

The Coastal Plain. The coastal plain is divided into the northern, central, and southern sections, a strip a hundred and thirty miles long, with Phoenician Tyre in the north and Philistine Gaza in the south. The main features of the coastal plain, narrow in the north and wider in the south, are (from north to south) the Plain of Acco, the Jezreel Valley, the Sharon, the Philistine coast, and the western Negeb. There are two coastal streams: the Kishon enters the sea just north of Mount Carmel; the Yarkon serves as a border between the Sharon and the Shephelah. The great international highway, the Via Maris (Lat.{Lat. Latin}, ‘the way of the sea’), runs the length of the coastline.

Jezreel or Esdraelon (‘Esdraelon’ is the Greek form of ‘Jezreel’) is the broad and inviting valley connecting the coastal area and the Jordan Valley. This rich agricultural region is excellent for farming. The Plain of Sharon, the central portion of the coastal plain, extends for a distance of about forty-five miles from the Carmel range to Joppa. Forested in antiquity, the Sharon was not heavily inhabited in biblical times. The Philistine coast encompasses the fertile land between Joppa and the Wadi Ghazzeh (located about six miles south of Gaza). The Philistine pentapolis consisted of Gaza, Ashkelon, and Ashdod along the coast, Gath in the Shephelah, and Ekron six miles inland. Although natural harbors were lacking in this area, Ashkelon served as the main Philistine port.

The western Negeb lies at the southern end of the coastal plain. Usually translated ‘south’ from its position, ‘Negeb’ means ‘dry land’; it designates the rugged territory between Beer-sheba and the Gulf of Aqabah. The biblical Negeb is the east-west zone from Gaza to the Dead Sea, known today as the northern Negeb. The Bible identifies the southernmost area of Palestine as the Wilderness of Zin (Josh. 15:1). The two prominent biblical sites located in the Negeb are Kadesh-barnea, where Moses and the Israelites spent thirty-eight years on their trek from Sinai to Transjordan, and Beer-sheba, where the patriarchs worshiped.

The Shephelah. The Shephelah, meaning ‘lowlands,’ is the range of limestone hills between the Philistine plain and the Judean mountains. There narrow foothills are ‘lowlands’ from the vantage point of the Israelites living in the higher hill country to the east. Thickly settled in biblical times, the Shephelah is a fertile region. As a buffer zone between the coastal plain and the mountains, the Shephelah was strategic in the defense of Palestine; fortified towns like Lachish were situated in the Shephelah.

The Central Mountain Range. The next geographical zone is the central mountain range, also called the hill country. Situated between the Shephelah and the Jordan Valley, it is the geographical backbone of Palestine. The principal regions of the hill country are Galilee, Samaria, and Judah. Galilee, which figures prominently in the nt{nt New Testament}, is divided into Upper and Lower Galilee. The highest mountain regions in Palestine are in Upper Galilee; Lower Galilee has rolling hills and fertile soil.

In the ot{ot Old Testament} the most famous and prosperous part of the country was the Northern Kingdom, known as Samaria; it is the geographical center of Palestine. The valley of Jezreel separates Samaria from Galilee. Deriving its name from the capital city of Israel, Samaria is rich in agriculture, especially grain, olives, and vines. Mount Ebal and Mount Gerizim are the two most conspicuous peaks among the hills of Samaria. In biblical times these mountains had both military importance and religious significance.

Judah designated the Southern Kingdom ruled by the Davidic kings; it was the least desirable region of western Palestine. In Greek and Roman times (ca. 333 b.c.-a.d. 324) this southern region of Palestine was called Judea, the Greek form of Judah. The boundaries of both Judah and Judea fluctuated throughout history. Jerusalem, ‘the holy mountain,’ was the capital city of the southern region. With an elevation of about 2,460 feet above sea level, Jerusalem is secured on three sides by valleys: on the east by the Kidron Valley, on the west by the Valley of Hinnom; the Tyropoeon is a central valley dividing the mount of Jerusalem into the Upper City (the western hill) and the Lower City (the city of David and the Temple Mount).

The Jordan Valley. The unique feature of Palestine’s geography is the Rift Valley, splitting the country down the middle. Palestine straddles this fissure, the largest geological fault on earth. Beginning in northern Syria, the Rift extends to easternmost Africa. The Rift, as well as Palestine’s hilly topography and wadi system, militated against political unity; they fragmented the country into separate tribes or other political units.

The Jordan River flows down the middle of the Rift, whose average width is about ten miles. The Rift is composed of the Huleh Valley, the Sea of Galilee (Chinnereth), the Jordan Valley, the Dead Sea, the Arabah plain and the Gulf of Aqabah (Elath).

Ten miles north of the Sea of Galilee is the Huleh Valley; lying between the Litani River and Mount Hermon, it is mostly within modern Lebanon. The Sea of Galilee (it is a fresh-water lake) figured prominently in the ministry of Jesus. The earliest name for this harp-shaped body of water was Chinnereth, derived perhaps from a fortified city at the northwest corner of the Sea of Galilee. Thirteen miles long and seven miles wide, the Sea of Galilee is 630 feet below sea level.

The Jordan, the largest river in Palestine, meanders for two hundred miles between the Sea of Galilee and the Dead Sea, three times the distance as the crow flies. In its southerly course between the Sea of Galilee and the Dead Sea the Jordan drops about 600 feet. The Yarmuk and Jabbok rivers are important tributaries of the Jordan from the east; there are no significant tributaries from the west.

The Dead Sea is another unusual geographical feature of Palestine. It is so called because its high mineral content prevents the survival of marine life. In view of its high concentration of sodium chloride (six times the salt content of the ocean) the Bible refers to this body of water as the Salt Sea. On the other hand, the Dead Sea contains such useful minerals and natural resources as potash, bromine, phosphate, magnesium, calcium, and potassium. The Dead Sea measures fifty-five miles from north to south and is about ten miles wide. Thirteen hundred feet below sea level at its surface, the Dead Sea is the lowest depression on earth.

‘Arabah’ in the Bible designates the Rift Valley from the Sea of Galilee to the Dead Sea; today the term refers only to the continuation of the Rift between the Dead Sea and the Gulf of Aqabah (Elath), a distance of about a hundred and ten miles. Covered with alluvial sand and gravel, the Arabah is rich in copper deposits.

The Transjordan Plateau. The final self-contained zone is the Transjordan highlands. The term ‘Transjordan’ embraces the whole easterly region between the Rift and the Syrian desert. Four main east-west tributaries cut the Transjordan highlands: the Yarmuk, the largest river in Jordan, the Jabbok, the Arnon, and the Zered. These bodies of water also serve as boundaries for the various geopolitical sections of Transjordan: Bashan (north of the Yarmuk), Gilead (south of the Yarmuk), Ammon (between the Jabbok and Arnon), Moab (between the Arnon and the Zered), and Edom (south of the Zered).

The Jabbok is the modern Nahr ez-Zerqa, ‘the blue river’; Jacob wrestled with an ‘angel’ at the ford of the Jabbok near Penuel (Gen. 32:24-30). Wadi Mojib, the modern name of the Arnon, is a precipitous canyon associated with Moab. The Zered is identified with the Wadi el-Hesa, which divided Moab and Edom. On their way to Jericho the Israelites crossed the deep Wadi Zered.

Transjordan is divided into three main sections: Bashan in the north; Gilead, Ammon, and Moab in the center; and Edom in the south. The King’s Highway, a well-known international caravan route, extends from Damascus to the Gulf of Aqabah; it runs the length of Transjordan, passing through Bashan, Gilead, Ammon, Moab, and Edom. Transjordan has been the subject of intensive regional archaeological surveys during the past decade.

Bashan in the northern district of Transjordan parallels the Sea of Galilee; it is good pasture land. Several biblical authors commented on natural features of Bashan, suggesting prosperity and luxury (1 Chron. 6:71; Ezek. 39:18; Mic. 7:14). The black basalt so abundantly available in Bashan is used for building stones today as in biblical times.

The mountainous region of Gilead is most pleasant and is well known for its excellent pasture. Gilead was forested in antiquity, and its trees may have produced the balm to which Jeremiah alluded (Jer. 8:22). David fled to Gilead when Absalom attempted to usurp his throne (2 Sam. 17:21-26). The prophet Elijah was a native of Gilead (1 Kings 17:1).

The boundaries of Ammon in the north-central part of the country were never clearly defined. The citadel in modern Amman is the site of the ancient capital of Ammon. The territory of Moab in central Transjordan lies east of the Dead Sea. Both Kerak and Dhiban (Dibon) served as the capital cities of Moab. This region is known for wheat, barley, sheep, goats, and camels. The Israelites had a strong antipathy toward the Moabites, with whom they often contended.

Edom is the region in the highland of Seir, located in southern Transjordan. The characteristic shrub forests covering the mountains of Edom may account for the name ‘Mount Seir,’ meaning ‘hairy mountain’ in Hebrew. The Edomite territory extended south of the Dead Sea on both sides of the Arabah, as far as the Gulf of Aqabah. Controlling the King’s Highway, which brought trade from India and South Arabia to Egypt, the Edomites acquired great wealth.

After the fall of Jerusalem in 586 b.c. the Edomites incurred the fury of the Judahites by occupying their land. Their encroachment on the land of Judah may have been occasioned by the invading Nabateans, an Arabic-speaking people from the desert who settled in Edom, making Petra their capital. The Edomites of south Judah became the Idumaeans of Hellenistic and Roman times. Herod the Great (Luke 1:5) was an Idumaean.

Archaeological History: The advent of written records is one of the great dividers between the prehistorical and historical periods; it dates to about 3000 b.c. in the Near East. Current field surveys are producing abundant material from the prehistorical period to supplement earlier studies.

Old, Middle, and New Stone Ages. Artifacts from the Paleolithic period (Old Stone Age, ca. 400,000-14,000 b.c.) have been found on the surface of the ground at a number of sites in Palestine. In this period, humans were hunters and gatherers of wild plants. The Paleolithic period is represented in Palestine by the Mount Carmel man; caves on the western edge of the Carmel range have produced stratified evidence of Paleolithic and Mesolithic occupation.

The Mesolithic period (Middle Stone Age) began about 14,000 b.c. Several pertinent sites containing evidence of a microlithic flint industry are scattered throughout Palestine. The Natufian is a Mesolithic culture. It is so called from the valley of Natuf, about ten miles northwest of Jerusalem, where an important flint deposit was found. The Natufians lived in caves, hunted, and harvested wild grain. A number of Natufian sites are known, notably Beidha, near Petra in Transjordan.

The Neolithic period (New Stone Age, ca. 8000-4200 b.c.) is well represented in the Levant; the study of several hundred sites has just begun. Beidha is also an important Early Neolithic site; its earliest Neolithic levels date to about 7000 b.c.

Jericho is a key site for Neolithic culture. The earliest occupation at Jericho dates to about 8000 b.c. A clear distinction is made between Prepottery Neolithic A and B. Lasting during most of the eighth millennium, Prepottery Neolithic A is characterized by circular house structures, a lithic industry, and the domestication of wheat and barley. No longer nomads, the people lived in huts; agriculture was responsible for a sedentary form of life in Palestine. A remarkable stone tower associated with the town wall in Prepottery Neolithic A came to light at Jericho. Prepottery Neolithic A ended abruptly; then followed Prepottery Neolithic B, from the late eighth to the seventh millennium; it, too, came to an abrupt end. Sites of this period existed all over Palestine. Characteristic of Prepottery B were the domestication of wheat and barley, domestic goats, and architecture consisting of more elaborate houses with multiple rooms of rectangular form grouped around courtyards.

One of the major Neolithic sites in the Near East was discovered recently at Ain Ghazal, a Prepottery Neolithic B village in the northeastern suburbs of Amman (Jordan). This site is three times larger than Jericho. A collection of modeled clay human statues and figures made of clay or plaster came to light at Ain Ghazal. These statues, dating to about 6200-6000 b.c., certainly bear a relationship to the remarkable find at Jericho of human skulls with features restored by plaster and shell incrustations.

Pottery first appeared toward the end of the Neolithic period. The earliest pottery in Transjordan dates to Late Neolithic (ca. 4700-4200 b.c.); it came from the site of Dhra, east of the Dead Sea. In the coastal region of Palestine ceramic vessels fired in a kiln date to the first half of the fifth millennium.

Chalcolithic Age. Evidence from the Chalcolithic Age (Copper-Stone Age, 4200-3300 b.c.) was first recognized at Teleilat Ghassul, near the northeastern end of the Dead Sea. Occupied in the Early Chalcolithic, Ghassul was a fully developed village site. Because of the discovery of Chalcolithic at Teleilat Ghassul, the culture is often referred to as Ghassulian.

The transition between the Chalcolithic and the Early Bronze periods is sometimes referred to as the ‘Proto Urban’ phase. In this period people lived in villages; they also introduced new pottery as well as new methods of burial in the form of rock-cut tombs with multiple burials.

Early, Middle, and Late Bronze Ages. The Early Bronze Age (ca. 3300-2300 b.c.) is well represented at sites such as Arad, Megiddo, and Jericho west of the Jordan, and at Bab-edh-Dhra east of the Jordan. Bab-edh-Dhra is well known for its large cemetery consisting of shaft tombs with multiple chambers in Early Bronze Age I, and of charnel houses of mud-brick in Early Bronze Age II-III. The Early Bronze Age III (2700-2300 b.c.) saw the full urban development of Palestine.

When the Early Bronze Age came to an end in 2300 b. c, an Intermediate Early Bronze-Middle Bronze period (ca. 2300-1900 b.c.), sometimes referred to as Early Bronze IV, followed. The material culture was seminomadic, nonurban, perhaps to be attributed in part to the incursions of pastoralists from Syria and Mesopotamia. They may have been the invading Amorites, a Northwest Semitic-speaking people who were present in Palestine by 1900 b.c.

The Middle Bronze Age (ca. 1900-1550 b.c.) was a period of prosperity marked by the reappearance of urban civilization and characterized by well-built houses, massive fortifications, and walled towns. Dan, Hazor, Shechem, and Gezer are typical Middle Bronze sites. Egyptian and Mesopotamian written records from this period contain references to Palestine.

The Late Bronze Age (1550-1200 b.c.) was a time of Egyptian hegemony over Palestine; the quality of the material culture declined in this period. The year 1200 b.c. marked the advent of the Iron Age and the entry of the Israelites and their archenemies, the Philistines, into Palestine. The remaining periods are the proper subject of biblical history.

Mapping Biblical Sites: The beginning of the nineteenth century marked the reawakening of scientific interest in Palestine. In 1799 when Napoleon Bonaparte invaded Palestine, he brought with him geographers and engineers to prepare maps of the land. Foremost among the explorers of this era was the American Edward Robinson, whose historic travels in the Holy Land in 1838 and 1852 signaled the beginning of a new era in the geographical study of Palestine. While investigating the physical and historical geography of Palestine, Robinson also succeeded in identifying over a hundred biblical sites.

Robinson’s contribution to the geography of Palestine inspired other explorers, among them Titus Tobler of Germany, Victor Guérin of France, and Claude Conder of England. Influenced by Robinson the British in 1865 established the Palestine Exploration Fund for the systematic and scientific exploration of Palestine. The Fund’s geographical Survey of Western Palestine (1872-1878) accomplished the mapping of more than ten thousand sites; the resultant Map of Western Palestine still serves as the basis for the cartography of Cisjordan.

The work begun by the nineteenth-century explorers continues relentlessly today, as scholars from many lands make their contribution. P.J.K.{P.J.K. Philip J. King, S.T.D.; Professor of Biblical Studies; Boston College; Chestnut Hill, Massachusetts}

 

PalestinePalestine, the territory along the eastern coast of the Mediterranean Sea traditionally known as the land of the Bible. (Refer to map 1 in the section of color maps.)

Name: Besides ‘Palestine’ there are several other designations for this area: the Holy Land, the Promised Land, the land of Canaan, and the land of Israel (Heb.{Heb. Hebrew} eretz ysrael). Ironically the name ‘Palestine’ is derived from the Philistines, the archenemies of the Israelites. Originally a designation for the southern coastal strip where the Philistines had settled in the twelfth century b.c., Palestine became the name for the entire region. The ancient Greek historian Herodotus was the first to use Palaistineµ, the Hellenistic form of Philistia, in the inclusive sense.

After the suppression of the Bar-Kochba revolt in a.d. 135 the Roman emperor Hadrian expunged the name Provincia Judea and substituted Provincia Syria Palaestina or simply Palaestina (Palestine). By a.d. 400 three provinces had been established with the designations Palaestina prima and secunda, west of the Jordan River, and Palaestina tertia, east of the Jordan and north of the Arnon River. The main part of the province of Palestine was in Cisjordan, meaning west of the Jordan, but sections of Transjordan, meaning east of the Jordan, also belonged to the province of Palestine.

After World War I when the British ruled Palestine by mandate, they revived ‘Palestine’ as the official title of the land west of the Jordan. In 1923 the British government divided Transjordan from Cisjordan, making Transjordan an emirate under British sovereignty.

Archaeologists often use the title ‘Palestine’ as a geographical, not a political, designation for the region including modern Israel and the western sector of modern Jordan. Despite perennial disputes over boundaries in the Near East, the areas west and east of the Jordan have much in common with respect to history, geography, and archaeology. ‘Palestine’ serves as a convenient term for all the archaeological periods of the biblical land, while the geographical term ‘Israel’ would be inaccurate; this latter designation did not come into existence until the tenth century b.c.

Geography: Throughout history the political boundaries of Palestine have fluctuated considerably. Broadly described, Palestine is bounded on the north by the foothills of the Anatolian plateau, on the south by the Sinai desert, on the east by the Euphrates (‘the great river’ in the Bible), and on the west by the Mediterranean (‘the great sea’ in the Bible). These boundaries include the modern states of Israel, Jordan, Syria, and Lebanon. In round figures Palestine was no more than five hundred miles long and ninety-five miles wide. In accord with the traditional biblical formula ‘from Dan to Beer-sheba’ Palestine would have been much smaller, about the size of Vermont. Natural boundaries surrounded Palestine on three sides: the desert on the east and south, the Mediterranean on the west. In biblical times the cities were more like villages, small in size and population. The population of either of the two capitals, Samaria and Jerusalem, probably never exceeded thirty thousand inhabitants. According to scholarly estimates, in the first half of the eighth century b.c. the population of the Northern Kingdom was about eight hundred thousand and of the Southern Kingdom about three hundred thousand.

Although Palestine was insignificant in size and poor in natural resources, its strategic location made it a vital region; it was a land bridge for two continents and a crossroad for several nations. Armies and caravans traversed Palestine for centuries. Its geographical position immersed it in the political, commercial, cultural, and military activities of the whole region. Its strategic location also made it vulnerable: Palestine was ruled by a succession of conquerors: Egypt, Assyria, Babylonia, Persia, Greece, Rome, Byzantium, the Moslem caliphates, the Crusaders, the Ottoman Turks, and the British.

Physical and historical geography cannot be separated; they go hand in hand. The former is concerned with the configuration of the terrain; the latter deals with people’s use of the land and the impact of its geography on the life of the people. A country’s geography determines to some degree its history and helps to explain the history. Related phenomena, such as topography, climate, soil, and natural resources, affect a country’s internal history and may influence its international relations.

Palestine’s geographical position between the sea and the desert had a distinct bearing on its history. The unbroken Mediterranean coast’s lack of adequate harbors for anchorage discouraged maritime pursuits. The wilderness on the east made the people of Palestine vulnerable to the incursions of desert raiders.

Climate: Climate influenced the daily life of the people. Palestine is situated in a zone of subtropical climate, characterized by dry summers and rainy winters. Seventy percent of the annual rainfall occurs between November and February. Precipitation varies greatly in different parts of the country; most of the rain falls along the coastal plain. The annual rainfall in Upper Galilee to the north is about 45 inches; in the Negeb to the south about 8 inches. Palestine’s vegetation depends upon the rainfall, but not entirely; dew also plays an important part. Abundant along the coastal plain, especially on Mount Carmel, the dew is a great help to the summer vegetation.

Westerly winds prevail in Palestine, but there is also an unpleasant east wind from the desert to the south and southeast of Palestine; known as the sirocco (Italian), the hamsin (Arabic), and the sharab (Hebrew), it is the ‘east wind’ of the ot{ot Old Testament} (e.g., Gen. 41:6; Exod. 14:21; Isa. 27:8). This oppressive, dust-laden wind blows in the early autumn and late spring and often persists for several days.

Economy: Deuteronomy describes Palestine as ‘a land of wheat and barley, of vines and fig trees and pomegranates,…a land whose stones are iron, and out of whose hills you can dig copper’ (8:8-9). The economy of Palestine was basically agricultural and pastoral. Agriculture was conducted primarily in the north where the chief crops were wheat, barley, olives, grapes, and figs; the breeding of sheep and goats was done mostly in the south. In addition to domestic animals, there were foxes, jackals, hyenas, lizards, snakes, and scorpions. The lions and bears of biblical times are now extinct.

Palestine is not rich in raw materials, except for the iron mines in Transjordan and the copper mines of the Arabah in the south. The mineral products of Palestine are limestone, basalt, and clay. There is gypsum in the mountains of Galilee, sulphur in the environs of Gaza, and glass sand is dug near Beer-sheba.

Geology also had its part to play in the life of the people. The rocks in Palestine are basically limestone, chalk, basalt, and sandstone. The hard limestone makes excellent building stone; the porous limestone, which is the base of soil in Palestine, traps water. The resultant wells and springs are excellent for agriculture.

Five Natural Zones: Between the Mediterranean Sea to the west and the Syrian desert to the east, Palestine is divided into five natural zones running longitudinally, clearly evident on a relief map; they are, from west to east, the coastal plain, the Shephelah, the central mountain range, the Jordan Valley, and the Transjordan plateau.

The Coastal Plain. The coastal plain is divided into the northern, central, and southern sections, a strip a hundred and thirty miles long, with Phoenician Tyre in the north and Philistine Gaza in the south. The main features of the coastal plain, narrow in the north and wider in the south, are (from north to south) the Plain of Acco, the Jezreel Valley, the Sharon, the Philistine coast, and the western Negeb. There are two coastal streams: the Kishon enters the sea just north of Mount Carmel; the Yarkon serves as a border between the Sharon and the Shephelah. The great international highway, the Via Maris (Lat.{Lat. Latin}, ‘the way of the sea’), runs the length of the coastline.

Jezreel or Esdraelon (‘Esdraelon’ is the Greek form of ‘Jezreel’) is the broad and inviting valley connecting the coastal area and the Jordan Valley. This rich agricultural region is excellent for farming. The Plain of Sharon, the central portion of the coastal plain, extends for a distance of about forty-five miles from the Carmel range to Joppa. Forested in antiquity, the Sharon was not heavily inhabited in biblical times. The Philistine coast encompasses the fertile land between Joppa and the Wadi Ghazzeh (located about six miles south of Gaza). The Philistine pentapolis consisted of Gaza, Ashkelon, and Ashdod along the coast, Gath in the Shephelah, and Ekron six miles inland. Although natural harbors were lacking in this area, Ashkelon served as the main Philistine port.

The western Negeb lies at the southern end of the coastal plain. Usually translated ‘south’ from its position, ‘Negeb’ means ‘dry land’; it designates the rugged territory between Beer-sheba and the Gulf of Aqabah. The biblical Negeb is the east-west zone from Gaza to the Dead Sea, known today as the northern Negeb. The Bible identifies the southernmost area of Palestine as the Wilderness of Zin (Josh. 15:1). The two prominent biblical sites located in the Negeb are Kadesh-barnea, where Moses and the Israelites spent thirty-eight years on their trek from Sinai to Transjordan, and Beer-sheba, where the patriarchs worshiped.

The Shephelah. The Shephelah, meaning ‘lowlands,’ is the range of limestone hills between the Philistine plain and the Judean mountains. There narrow foothills are ‘lowlands’ from the vantage point of the Israelites living in the higher hill country to the east. Thickly settled in biblical times, the Shephelah is a fertile region. As a buffer zone between the coastal plain and the mountains, the Shephelah was strategic in the defense of Palestine; fortified towns like Lachish were situated in the Shephelah.

The Central Mountain Range. The next geographical zone is the central mountain range, also called the hill country. Situated between the Shephelah and the Jordan Valley, it is the geographical backbone of Palestine. The principal regions of the hill country are Galilee, Samaria, and Judah. Galilee, which figures prominently in the nt{nt New Testament}, is divided into Upper and Lower Galilee. The highest mountain regions in Palestine are in Upper Galilee; Lower Galilee has rolling hills and fertile soil.

In the ot{ot Old Testament} the most famous and prosperous part of the country was the Northern Kingdom, known as Samaria; it is the geographical center of Palestine. The valley of Jezreel separates Samaria from Galilee. Deriving its name from the capital city of Israel, Samaria is rich in agriculture, especially grain, olives, and vines. Mount Ebal and Mount Gerizim are the two most conspicuous peaks among the hills of Samaria. In biblical times these mountains had both military importance and religious significance.

Judah designated the Southern Kingdom ruled by the Davidic kings; it was the least desirable region of western Palestine. In Greek and Roman times (ca. 333 b.c.-a.d. 324) this southern region of Palestine was called Judea, the Greek form of Judah. The boundaries of both Judah and Judea fluctuated throughout history. Jerusalem, ‘the holy mountain,’ was the capital city of the southern region. With an elevation of about 2,460 feet above sea level, Jerusalem is secured on three sides by valleys: on the east by the Kidron Valley, on the west by the Valley of Hinnom; the Tyropoeon is a central valley dividing the mount of Jerusalem into the Upper City (the western hill) and the Lower City (the city of David and the Temple Mount).

The Jordan Valley. The unique feature of Palestine’s geography is the Rift Valley, splitting the country down the middle. Palestine straddles this fissure, the largest geological fault on earth. Beginning in northern Syria, the Rift extends to easternmost Africa. The Rift, as well as Palestine’s hilly topography and wadi system, militated against political unity; they fragmented the country into separate tribes or other political units.

The Jordan River flows down the middle of the Rift, whose average width is about ten miles. The Rift is composed of the Huleh Valley, the Sea of Galilee (Chinnereth), the Jordan Valley, the Dead Sea, the Arabah plain and the Gulf of Aqabah (Elath).

Ten miles north of the Sea of Galilee is the Huleh Valley; lying between the Litani River and Mount Hermon, it is mostly within modern Lebanon. The Sea of Galilee (it is a fresh-water lake) figured prominently in the ministry of Jesus. The earliest name for this harp-shaped body of water was Chinnereth, derived perhaps from a fortified city at the northwest corner of the Sea of Galilee. Thirteen miles long and seven miles wide, the Sea of Galilee is 630 feet below sea level.

The Jordan, the largest river in Palestine, meanders for two hundred miles between the Sea of Galilee and the Dead Sea, three times the distance as the crow flies. In its southerly course between the Sea of Galilee and the Dead Sea the Jordan drops about 600 feet. The Yarmuk and Jabbok rivers are important tributaries of the Jordan from the east; there are no significant tributaries from the west.

The Dead Sea is another unusual geographical feature of Palestine. It is so called because its high mineral content prevents the survival of marine life. In view of its high concentration of sodium chloride (six times the salt content of the ocean) the Bible refers to this body of water as the Salt Sea. On the other hand, the Dead Sea contains such useful minerals and natural resources as potash, bromine, phosphate, magnesium, calcium, and potassium. The Dead Sea measures fifty-five miles from north to south and is about ten miles wide. Thirteen hundred feet below sea level at its surface, the Dead Sea is the lowest depression on earth.

‘Arabah’ in the Bible designates the Rift Valley from the Sea of Galilee to the Dead Sea; today the term refers only to the continuation of the Rift between the Dead Sea and the Gulf of Aqabah (Elath), a distance of about a hundred and ten miles. Covered with alluvial sand and gravel, the Arabah is rich in copper deposits.

The Transjordan Plateau. The final self-contained zone is the Transjordan highlands. The term ‘Transjordan’ embraces the whole easterly region between the Rift and the Syrian desert. Four main east-west tributaries cut the Transjordan highlands: the Yarmuk, the largest river in Jordan, the Jabbok, the Arnon, and the Zered. These bodies of water also serve as boundaries for the various geopolitical sections of Transjordan: Bashan (north of the Yarmuk), Gilead (south of the Yarmuk), Ammon (between the Jabbok and Arnon), Moab (between the Arnon and the Zered), and Edom (south of the Zered).

The Jabbok is the modern Nahr ez-Zerqa, ‘the blue river’; Jacob wrestled with an ‘angel’ at the ford of the Jabbok near Penuel (Gen. 32:24-30). Wadi Mojib, the modern name of the Arnon, is a precipitous canyon associated with Moab. The Zered is identified with the Wadi el-Hesa, which divided Moab and Edom. On their way to Jericho the Israelites crossed the deep Wadi Zered.

Transjordan is divided into three main sections: Bashan in the north; Gilead, Ammon, and Moab in the center; and Edom in the south. The King’s Highway, a well-known international caravan route, extends from Damascus to the Gulf of Aqabah; it runs the length of Transjordan, passing through Bashan, Gilead, Ammon, Moab, and Edom. Transjordan has been the subject of intensive regional archaeological surveys during the past decade.

Bashan in the northern district of Transjordan parallels the Sea of Galilee; it is good pasture land. Several biblical authors commented on natural features of Bashan, suggesting prosperity and luxury (1 Chron. 6:71; Ezek. 39:18; Mic. 7:14). The black basalt so abundantly available in Bashan is used for building stones today as in biblical times.

The mountainous region of Gilead is most pleasant and is well known for its excellent pasture. Gilead was forested in antiquity, and its trees may have produced the balm to which Jeremiah alluded (Jer. 8:22). David fled to Gilead when Absalom attempted to usurp his throne (2 Sam. 17:21-26). The prophet Elijah was a native of Gilead (1 Kings 17:1).

The boundaries of Ammon in the north-central part of the country were never clearly defined. The citadel in modern Amman is the site of the ancient capital of Ammon. The territory of Moab in central Transjordan lies east of the Dead Sea. Both Kerak and Dhiban (Dibon) served as the capital cities of Moab. This region is known for wheat, barley, sheep, goats, and camels. The Israelites had a strong antipathy toward the Moabites, with whom they often contended.

Edom is the region in the highland of Seir, located in southern Transjordan. The characteristic shrub forests covering the mountains of Edom may account for the name ‘Mount Seir,’ meaning ‘hairy mountain’ in Hebrew. The Edomite territory extended south of the Dead Sea on both sides of the Arabah, as far as the Gulf of Aqabah. Controlling the King’s Highway, which brought trade from India and South Arabia to Egypt, the Edomites acquired great wealth.

After the fall of Jerusalem in 586 b.c. the Edomites incurred the fury of the Judahites by occupying their land. Their encroachment on the land of Judah may have been occasioned by the invading Nabateans, an Arabic-speaking people from the desert who settled in Edom, making Petra their capital. The Edomites of south Judah became the Idumaeans of Hellenistic and Roman times. Herod the Great (Luke 1:5) was an Idumaean.

Archaeological History: The advent of written records is one of the great dividers between the prehistorical and historical periods; it dates to about 3000 b.c. in the Near East. Current field surveys are producing abundant material from the prehistorical period to supplement earlier studies.

Old, Middle, and New Stone Ages. Artifacts from the Paleolithic period (Old Stone Age, ca. 400,000-14,000 b.c.) have been found on the surface of the ground at a number of sites in Palestine. In this period, humans were hunters and gatherers of wild plants. The Paleolithic period is represented in Palestine by the Mount Carmel man; caves on the western edge of the Carmel range have produced stratified evidence of Paleolithic and Mesolithic occupation.

The Mesolithic period (Middle Stone Age) began about 14,000 b.c. Several pertinent sites containing evidence of a microlithic flint industry are scattered throughout Palestine. The Natufian is a Mesolithic culture. It is so called from the valley of Natuf, about ten miles northwest of Jerusalem, where an important flint deposit was found. The Natufians lived in caves, hunted, and harvested wild grain. A number of Natufian sites are known, notably Beidha, near Petra in Transjordan.

The Neolithic period (New Stone Age, ca. 8000-4200 b.c.) is well represented in the Levant; the study of several hundred sites has just begun. Beidha is also an important Early Neolithic site; its earliest Neolithic levels date to about 7000 b.c.

Jericho is a key site for Neolithic culture. The earliest occupation at Jericho dates to about 8000 b.c. A clear distinction is made between Prepottery Neolithic A and B. Lasting during most of the eighth millennium, Prepottery Neolithic A is characterized by circular house structures, a lithic industry, and the domestication of wheat and barley. No longer nomads, the people lived in huts; agriculture was responsible for a sedentary form of life in Palestine. A remarkable stone tower associated with the town wall in Prepottery Neolithic A came to light at Jericho. Prepottery Neolithic A ended abruptly; then followed Prepottery Neolithic B, from the late eighth to the seventh millennium; it, too, came to an abrupt end. Sites of this period existed all over Palestine. Characteristic of Prepottery B were the domestication of wheat and barley, domestic goats, and architecture consisting of more elaborate houses with multiple rooms of rectangular form grouped around courtyards.

One of the major Neolithic sites in the Near East was discovered recently at Ain Ghazal, a Prepottery Neolithic B village in the northeastern suburbs of Amman (Jordan). This site is three times larger than Jericho. A collection of modeled clay human statues and figures made of clay or plaster came to light at Ain Ghazal. These statues, dating to about 6200-6000 b.c., certainly bear a relationship to the remarkable find at Jericho of human skulls with features restored by plaster and shell incrustations.

Pottery first appeared toward the end of the Neolithic period. The earliest pottery in Transjordan dates to Late Neolithic (ca. 4700-4200 b.c.); it came from the site of Dhra, east of the Dead Sea. In the coastal region of Palestine ceramic vessels fired in a kiln date to the first half of the fifth millennium.

Chalcolithic Age. Evidence from the Chalcolithic Age (Copper-Stone Age, 4200-3300 b.c.) was first recognized at Teleilat Ghassul, near the northeastern end of the Dead Sea. Occupied in the Early Chalcolithic, Ghassul was a fully developed village site. Because of the discovery of Chalcolithic at Teleilat Ghassul, the culture is often referred to as Ghassulian.

The transition between the Chalcolithic and the Early Bronze periods is sometimes referred to as the ‘Proto Urban’ phase. In this period people lived in villages; they also introduced new pottery as well as new methods of burial in the form of rock-cut tombs with multiple burials.

Early, Middle, and Late Bronze Ages. The Early Bronze Age (ca. 3300-2300 b.c.) is well represented at sites such as Arad, Megiddo, and Jericho west of the Jordan, and at Bab-edh-Dhra east of the Jordan. Bab-edh-Dhra is well known for its large cemetery consisting of shaft tombs with multiple chambers in Early Bronze Age I, and of charnel houses of mud-brick in Early Bronze Age II-III. The Early Bronze Age III (2700-2300 b.c.) saw the full urban development of Palestine.

When the Early Bronze Age came to an end in 2300 b. c, an Intermediate Early Bronze-Middle Bronze period (ca. 2300-1900 b.c.), sometimes referred to as Early Bronze IV, followed. The material culture was seminomadic, nonurban, perhaps to be attributed in part to the incursions of pastoralists from Syria and Mesopotamia. They may have been the invading Amorites, a Northwest Semitic-speaking people who were present in Palestine by 1900 b.c.

The Middle Bronze Age (ca. 1900-1550 b.c.) was a period of prosperity marked by the reappearance of urban civilization and characterized by well-built houses, massive fortifications, and walled towns. Dan, Hazor, Shechem, and Gezer are typical Middle Bronze sites. Egyptian and Mesopotamian written records from this period contain references to Palestine.

The Late Bronze Age (1550-1200 b.c.) was a time of Egyptian hegemony over Palestine; the quality of the material culture declined in this period. The year 1200 b.c. marked the advent of the Iron Age and the entry of the Israelites and their archenemies, the Philistines, into Palestine. The remaining periods are the proper subject of biblical history.

Mapping Biblical Sites: The beginning of the nineteenth century marked the reawakening of scientific interest in Palestine. In 1799 when Napoleon Bonaparte invaded Palestine, he brought with him geographers and engineers to prepare maps of the land. Foremost among the explorers of this era was the American Edward Robinson, whose historic travels in the Holy Land in 1838 and 1852 signaled the beginning of a new era in the geographical study of Palestine. While investigating the physical and historical geography of Palestine, Robinson also succeeded in identifying over a hundred biblical sites.

Robinson’s contribution to the geography of Palestine inspired other explorers, among them Titus Tobler of Germany, Victor Guérin of France, and Claude Conder of England. Influenced by Robinson the British in 1865 established the Palestine Exploration Fund for the systematic and scientific exploration of Palestine. The Fund’s geographical Survey of Western Palestine (1872-1878) accomplished the mapping of more than ten thousand sites; the resultant Map of Western Palestine still serves as the basis for the cartography of Cisjordan.

The work begun by the nineteenth-century explorers continues relentlessly today, as scholars from many lands make their contribution. P.J.K.{P.J.K. Philip J. King, S.T.D.; Professor of Biblical Studies; Boston College; Chestnut Hill, Massachusetts}

 

PALESTINEPALESTINE. The term ‘Palestine’, originally applied to the territory of Israel’s foes, the Philistines, was first used by Herodotus as a designation of S{S South, southern} Syria. In the form of Palaestina, it was also used by the Romans. The older term ‘Canaan’ has a similar history. In the el-*Amarna letters (14th century bc{bc before Christ}) Canaan was limited to the coastal plains, then with the Canaanite conquests of the interior it was applied to all the lands W{W West, western} of the Jordan Valley. The terms ‘land of Israel’ (1 Sa. 13:19) and ‘the land of promise’ (Heb. 11:9 are associated with the Israelites in the same area, the latter usually connected with the area from Dan to Beersheba, N{N North, northern} of the Negeb. The Israelite settlement of two-and-a-half tribes E{E East, eastern; Elohist} of the Jordan seems to have resulted from unforeseen circumstances and the hold on that side of the valley appears to have been generally precarious. After the division of the kingdom, the name Israel was usually given to the N{N North, northern} realm. In the Middle Ages, the term ‘the Holy Land’ was often adopted (cf.{cf. confer (Lat.), compare} Zc. 2:12).

 

I. The position and highways of Palestine

 

The mediaeval perspective of Jerusalem as the centre of the earth is not so absurd as might be thought, for on the tiny Syrian corridor that unites the world island of Europe, Asia and Africa, the five seas of the Mediterranean, Black Sea, Caspian, Red Sea and the Persian Gulf narrow the greatest land mass of our planet into a single isthmus. All the important continental routes must go across this corridor, and the great sea-routes of antiquity between the Indies and the Mediterranean must in turn be linked by land communications across the Sinai Peninsula. The high mountain chains which run E{E East, eastern; Elohist} from Asia Minor to Kurdistan and the deserts to the S{S South, southern} and E{E East, eastern; Elohist} further help to concentrate the routeways of ‘the Fertile Crescent’, which, sickle-shaped, runs from Palestine and S{S South, southern} Syria to the alluvial valley basins of the Tigris and Euphrates. It is, of course, ‘fertile’ only in comparison with the surrounding desert and mountainous terrain, since most of it is either Mediterranean scrub or steppe. At either end of the Fertile Crescent a great locus of civilization developed in the lower basin of Mesopotamia and the lower Nile Valley respectively, whose fortunes dominated the history of the Near East for almost two millennia.

Three great trade routes have always traversed Palestine. The great Trunk Road, perhaps described in Is. 9:1 as ‘the way of the sea’, runs along the low coast from Egypt to the Vale of Esdraelon. Then it is diverted inland by the Syrian mountains to skirt the W{W West, western} side of the Lake of Galilee, then through the Syrian Gate and central depression to Damascus, where it joins the desert caravan trails across to Mesopotamia. Two other routes are of great antiquity although of lesser importance. The *King’s Highway follows the edge of the Transjordan plateau from the Gulf of Aqabah towards Damascus. It marks a zone of increased rainfall and was followed in part by the Israelites during the Exodus (Nu. 21-22), and all the towns enumerated in Nu. 21; 27-30 lie along it. The watershed of central Palestine is followed by another route, the shortest between Sinai and Canaan. In the N{N North, northern} *Negeb it links an important series of wells, keeping W{W West, western} of the forbidding, barren depressions of the E{E East, eastern; Elohist} Negeb that are still difficult to traverse. It links all the important historic centres from Kadesh-barnea and Beersheba to Hebron, Jerusalem, Shechem and Megiddo. Heavily travelled from the Abramic (Middle Bronze I) period onwards, it was also made famous by the journey of Joshua and his fellow spies. All these routes emphasized the N{N North, northern}-S{S South, southern} alignment of Palestine, which benefited from their fertilizing contacts of trade and culture. But Israel was rarely able to control these highways without upsetting the strategic interests of the great powers that dominated their terminals. Even in Solomon’s day the coastal highway was too tightly controlled by the sea-powers to warrant interference there (1 Ki. 9:11; 10:22; Ezk. 27:17), while Edom was for long Israel’s deadly enemy because it dominated the routes from the Gulf of Aqabah where Israel obtained its copper (Ob. 3).

A number of minor transverse routes have joined these parallel highways. Of these the most important have been: (1) Gaza-Beersheba-Petra; (2) Ashkelon-Gath-Helvan; (3) Joppa-Bethel-Jericho (cf.{cf. confer (Lat.), compare} Jos. 10:6-14) and Joppa-Shechem-Adam-Gilead (Jos. 3:16); (4) Vale of Esdraelon-Megiddo-Gilead. Exposed to coastal sedimentation from the Nile, the coast of Palestine as far as Carmel has been unfavourable for port development, so the chief towns have been route centres at important road junctions, either in the strategic plain of Esdraelon or along the hilly dorsal of Judaea and Samaria. The sea was an unfamiliar medium of communication to the Hebrews (cf.{cf. confer (Lat.), compare} Ps. 107), while the desert was also feared as ‘a land of trouble and anguish’ (Is. 30:6; cf.{cf. confer (Lat.), compare} Dt. 8:15). Perched precariously between them, the Hebrew highlanders sought a protracted aloofness from both environments and their peoples. Thus autonomy of spirit became a major characteristic of the Israelites, despite their nodal position at the hub of the ancient world’s trade routes.

 

II. The geological structure and relief

 

For some 675 km from the borders of Egypt to Asia Minor, the Levant consists of five major zones: (1) the littoral; (2) the W{W West, western} mountain chain (the Judaean-Galilean highlands, Lebanon and Ansariya mountains); (3) the rift valleys (Arabah, Jordan valley, BiqaÔ and Ghôr); (4) the E{E East, eastern; Elohist} mountains (highlands of Transjordan, Hermon and Anti-lebanon); and (5) the deserts of Negeb, Arabia and Syria. But the contrasts between the N{N North, northern} and S{S South, southern} sections of these zones explain the individuality of Palestine. N{N North, northern} of Acre, the mountains rise, abruptly from the sea, limiting the narrow coastal plains to discontinuous stretches but providing the famous harbours of Sidon, Tyre, Beirut, Tripoli and Ras Shamra. The limited hinterlands of each unit have encouraged independent maritime city-states where ‘the families of the Canaanites spread abroad’ (Gn. 10:18). . of Mt Carmel, however, the coast opens into a broad continuous plain, harbourless except for artificial ports erected by  the Philistines and later sea-peoples.

A second contrast is to be found in the Rift Valley sectors. In Syria the BiqaÔ depression is a broad, fertile plain between the lofty ranges of Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon, with wide access to other rolling plains, and studded with historic centres such as Kadesh, Homs and Hamath. To the S{S South, southern}, the depression blocked by recent basaltic lavas narrows into deep gorges before opening into the swamp of Lake Huleh, making N{N North, northern}-S{S South, southern} communication difficult. These features have tended to isolate Palestine from the N{N North, northern} territory.

The rocks of Palestine are notably limestone, volcanics and recent deposits such as marls, gravels and sands. The Rift Valley represents an ancient planetary lineament that is traceable as far as the E{E East, eastern; Elohist} African Lakes. Broadly speaking, it has operated like a hinge, so that the areas to the W{W West, western} of it have been mostly under the sea, whereas the Arabian block has been generally continental. Thus, W{W West, western} of the Rift the rocks are predominantly limestone laid down specially during the Cretaceous and Eocene eras. Some of these are hard and dolomitic (Cenomanian and Eocene), explaining the steep headland of Mt Carmel, the twin mountains of Ebal and Gerizim above Shechem, and generally all the rugged, higher relief of the Judaean-Galilean dorsal. But the Senonian is a soft chalk, easily eroded into gaps and valleys that breach the highlands, notably at Megiddo, the Valley of Aijalon and the moat of Beth-shemesh which separates the Eocene foothills of the Shephelah from the Judaean plateau. These limestones have been upworked along the central dorsal and gently folded in a series of arches which become more complicated farther N{N North, northern} in Samaria and Galilee. They occur, however, horizontal in Transjordan, resting upon the continental block beneath them. The ancient block is exposed in the SE in the high cliffs of the Wadi Arabah and in the Sinai Peninsula. Overlapping them are the so-called Nubian sandstones, whose desert origin prolonged over vast geological periods explains the red colour from which Edom probably derives its name (‘the red’). In the NE, recent basaltic lavas cap the limestones in the broad, undulating plateaux in the land of Bashan, and extending into the Jordan trough around the Lake of Galilee. These weather into the rich soils which attracted to the Galilean shores a high density of population from early times.

Palestine suffers from crustal instability. Volcanic eruptions have continued into historic times, notably in the cases of Harrat en-Nar, SE of the Gulf of Aqabah, which were active as late as the 8th and 13th centuries ad{ad anno Domini}. It is tempting to equate the descriptions of Ex. 19:18 and Ps. 68:8 with volcanic manifestations, but the traditional site of Sinai is in an area of ancient, crystalline rocks where no recent volcanic action has occurred. The fate of Sodom and Gomorrah (Gn. 14:10; 19:23-28) is a memory of some kind of volcanic phenomena, associated probably with the intrusion of sulphurous gas and liquid asphalt. There are also the biblical records of earthquakes (Gn. 19:25; 1 Sa. 14:15; Am. 1:1) and geological faulting (Nu. 16:31-35). All these are associated with the Great Rift Valley of the Jordan and Dead Sea, or with the series of transverse faults that form the Vale of Esdraelon and divide Samaria and Galilee into a complicated series of highland blocks and depressions floored with sediments.

Under the semi-arid conditions, badland relief is typical, especially around the E{E East, eastern; Elohist} and S{S South, southern} rims of the Judaean highlands and the W{W West, western} edge of the Transjordan plateau. Within the deep Jordan valley, soft marls deposited by a lake more extensive than the present Dead Sea have been dissected to form the Ghôr in the middle of the trough, lying at more than 365 m below sea-level. The seasonal wadis that drain into the Arabah trough have also deeply dissected their slopes. Thus the av{av Authorized Version (King James’), 1611} references to the ‘slippery places’ are a characteristic feature of many parts of the Negeb and the Jordan (Dt. 32:35; Pr. 3:23; Je. 23:12; 31:9). Much of the Negeb is a rock waste of hammadas, and direct reference to the wind-borne loessial deposits is made (Ex. 10:20-23; Dt. 28:24; Na. 1:3).

 

III. The climate and vegetation

 

In the Levant three climatic zones may be distinguished: a Mediterranean, a steppe and a desert zone, each with its distinct type of vegetation.

Along the coast as far S{S South, southern} as Gaza, the Mediterranean zone has mild winters (53.6°F, 12°C, mean monthly average for January at Gaza) compared with the severer conditions of the interior hills (Jerusalem 44.6°F, 7°C, in January). But summers are everywhere hot (Gaza 78.8°F, 26°C, in July, Jerusalem 73.4°F, 23°C). The prolonged snow cover of the high Lebanon mountains (Je. 18:14) is exceptional, though snow is not infrequent in the Hauran. Elsewhere it is a rare phenomenon (2 Sa. 23:20). Less than one-fifteenth part of the annual rainfall occurs in the summer months from June to October; nearly all of it is concentrated in winter to reach a maximum in mid-winter. The total amount varies from about 35-40 cm on the coast to about 75 cm on Mt Carmel and the Judaean, Galilean and Transjordan mountains. In the Beersheba area to the S{S South, southern}, and in parts of the Jordan valley and of the Transjordan plateau the climate is steppe, with only 20-30 cm of rain, though temperature conditions are comparable to those of the Judaean hills. The deep trough of the Jordan has sub-tropical conditions with stifling summer heat; at Jericho mean daily maxima remain above 100°F (38°C) from June to September, with frequent records of 110-120°F (43-49°C). The winter, however, has enjoyable conditions of 65-68°F (18-20°C) (January mean daily maximum). In the Negeb, the S{S South, southern} part of the Jordan Valley, and the country E{E East, eastern; Elohist} and S{S South, southern} of the Transjordan steppe the climate is desert, with less than 20 cm of rain a year.

There is no archaeological evidence that climate has changed since biblical times. Near the Gulf of Aqabah, a number of recently excavated Roman gutters still fit the springs for which they were constructed, and wherever the Byzantine wells of the Negeb have been kept clean and in constant use, the water still rises to the ancient levels. Thus the biblical narrative gives a convincing picture of the present climate. Distinction is made between the hot and cold seasons (Gn. 8:22; Am. 3:15), and the inception of the autumn rains is clearly described (Dt. 11:14; Ho. 6:3; Joel 2:23). Variability in the amount and distribution of rainfall is common (Am. 4:7), and the incidence of prolonged drought is recorded on a number of occasions (1 Ki. 17:7; Je. 17:8; Joel 1:10-12, 17-20).

Because of the contrasts of relief, from 1,020 m above sea-level near Hebron, to 390 m below sealevel at the Dead Sea, the flora of Palestine is very rich (about 3,000 vascular *plants) for such a small area. A large proportion of them are annuals. Few districts have ever had dense forests (*Trees), though remnants have been preserved in Mts *Hermon and *Lebanon with their cedars, firs, oaks and pines, and in the biblical Golan (Jaulan), where forests of pine and oak still exist. Lebanon has always been noted for its cedars. The Israelites had their share in deforestation of the Mediterranean woodland that once covered the central dorsal (Jos. 17:18), and today there are no traces of the woodlands that once existed at Bethel (2 Ki. 2:24), Ephraim (Jos. 17:15) and Gilead near the Jordan valley.

Oak forests long existed in Sharon, whose name means forest, but biblical prophecy states that three forested regions were to be turned into sheep pastures, the coastal Sharon, N{N North, northern} Gilead and SE Galilee (see Is. 65:10). The development of pastoralism must be blamed for much of this forest clearance in Palestine (cf.{cf. confer (Lat.), compare} 2 Ki. 3:4). But under Mediterranean conditions ‘the pastures of the wilderness’ are seasonally short-lived, so Rabbi Akiba (c.{c. circa (Lat.), about, approximately} ad{ad anno Domini} 100) observed shrewdly that ‘those who rear small cattle and cut down good trees. . . will see no sign of blessing’. Deterioration of the woodland scrub had gone so far in Palestine before the establishment of the modern state of Israel in ad{ad anno Domini} 1948 that most of the uncultivated land was a dreary expanse of batha, low scrub with open, rock outcrops. Towards the steppe and the desert, the colour of the landscape is governed more by the rocks than the plant cover, with only a few shrubby elements, such as wormwood, broom, saltwort and tufts of xerophytic grasses. Only along the banks of the Jordan is there a dense and wide gallery forest of various willows, poplar, tamarisk, oleander, etc.

But many of the Palestinian hill lands, eroded of their productive terra vessa soils, have been the graveyard of former civilizations, especially with the decay of terrace-cultivation. One estimate is that since Roman times 2,000-4,000 million cubic metres of soil have been worked off the E{E East, eastern; Elohist} side of the Judaean hills, sufficient to make 4,000-8,000 sq. km of good farmland. This threat of soil erosion is possibly alluded to in Jb. 14:18-19, and the easy spread of fire during the summer drought is described (Ps. 83:13-14). These features of Mediterranean instability are recognized in the need for balance and restraint, in a land which lies so precariously between the desert and the sown (Ex. 23:29-30; Pr. 24:30-34). (*Dew, *Rain, *Wind.)

 

IV. Water-supply and agriculture

 

It is not by chance that the names of over seventy ancient sites in Palestine contain the word Ôain, ‘spring’, and another sixty such sites the word béÆr, ‘well’. Apart from the Jordan, a few of its tributaries and four or five small coastal streams that are fed from springs, all the remaining rivers of Palestine are seasonal. Snow-fed streams account for their maximum volume in May-June (Jos. 3:15), but the majority dry up in the hot summer (1 Ki. 17:7; Jb. 24:19; Joel 1:20), notably in the Negeb (Ps. 126:4). With the autumn rains the sudden spate is graphically described (Jdg. 5:21; Mt. 7:27). Thus ‘the fountain of living waters’ was the ideal of the Israelite settler. The invention of a mortar which could be used in the construction of rain-collecting *cisterns (c.{c. circa (Lat.), about, approximately} 1300 bc{bc before Christ}) may well have been a decisive factor in the rapid colonization of the highlands of Judaea by the Israelite settlers. *Wells dug for watering the stock are early alluded to (Gn. 26, etc.) and irrigation was well known (Gn. 13:10). Reservoirs too for the needs of the urban population are frequently mentioned (Ct. 7:4), some fed through imposing rock-cut tunnels (2 Ki. 20:20). The need for water often pointed a moral lesson to the Israelites (Dt. 8:7-10; 11:10-17; 1 Ki. 18; Je. 2:13; 14:22).

Before the rise of the Monarchy at least, the agricultural population of central Palestine; consisted of small land-owners, and the typical produce of the land is described in the presents given by Abigail to David (1 Sa. 25:18). The importance in Judaea of the barley crop rather than wheat because of its low rainfall, and the fame of Carmel for its vines and Ephraim and Galilee for olives, have been justified since biblical times. But droughts tend to introduce debt and servitude, so that despite the ideological democracy envisaged in the jubilee year (Lv. 25), crownlands, large estates and forced labour already appear in the time of Saul (1 Sa. 8:16; 22:7; 25:2). In Transjordan and the Negeb it seems that the pastoral life has been traditionally supplemented by settled agricultural practices wherever wells and oases permitted. But the decline of agriculture has been constantly threatened by over-grazing by sheep and goats, apart from the more catastrophic incursions from the desert.

 

V. The settlements

 

A major problem in the historical geography of Palestine has been the identification of place-names. There are approximately 622 place-names W{W West, western} of Jordan recorded in the Bible. The lists of Tuthmosis III, Sethos I, Rameses II and *Shishak I at Karnak throw some light on Palestinian topography. The Onomasticon of Eusebius and Jerome is another valuable source. The work of R. Reland (1714) paved the way for the modern topographical work of Edward Robinson when he visited Palestine in 1838. He identified 177 place-names, few of which have been subsequently changed. In 1865 the Palestine Exploration Fund was established, and by 1927 about 434 place-names had been located; Conder in particular added 147 new names. A number of these are still disputed, and modern scholarship continues to debate a few of them.

The startling discoveries of Kathleen Kenyon at *Jericho show that there has been a semblance of urban life there since 6000-8000 bc{bc before Christ} with an 8-acre site occupied by some 3,000 inhabitants (*Archaeology). Indeed the Jordan Valley seems to have been from early times an area of dense settlement. N. Glueck notes some seventy sites there, many founded over 5,000 years ago, and over thirty-five of them still inhabited by Israelite times. It was only later that this valley which Lot found so attractive (Gn. 13:10) became more desolate, probably with the advent of malaria. It has been suggested that some of the Tells were artificial mounds built deliberately above the swampy ground, though added to by subsequent settlement. But everywhere water-supply has been the decisive factor of settlement. Fortified towns and castles were built at important perennial springs such as Jericho, Beth-shan and Aphek (famous from the wars of the Israelites with the Philistines). Indeed, it is a corollary that sites with abundant springs have usually had the most continuous settlement from remote times.

Along the coastal plain S{S South, southern} of Carmel settlement has been relatively dense since antiquity, favoured by the ease with which wells could be dug through the sandy soils to the lenticular beds of clay that hold suspended water-tables. But farther N{N North, northern} in the Vale of Sharon and Upper Galilee, where the water-supply is abundant, relatively dense woodland made human occupancy difficult until more recent centuries. In the basins of lower Galilee and Samaria population has for long been dense, scattered in numerous villages, but S{S South, southern} of Jerusalem village sites become fewer and more nucleated, until around Beersheba settlement has been limited to strategic fortified well-sites. In Transjordan the edge of the plateau is marked by a number of fortresses such as Petra, Bozrah (Buseira) and Tophel (Tafileh). Beyond them to the E{E East, eastern; Elohist} is the narrow stretch of agricultural land with its scattered villages along which ran the King’s Highway. Within these patterns of settlement dictated largely by water conditions, the strategic and most important towns have grown up at cross-roads where the proximity of some defile enabled the transverse roads to link with the main N{N North, northern}-S{S South, southern} highways. Such were in biblical times Beersheba, Hebron, Jerusalem, Bethel, Shechem, Samaria, Megiddo, Beth-shan and Hazor. Hence the psalmist could exclaim: ‘He led them by a straight way, till they reached a city to dwell in’ (Ps. 107:7).

 

VI. The regions of Palestine

 

The geographer can create as many regions as there are problems worth studying, so it is absurd to suggest that the delimitation of areas within Palestine has a permanent validity. But certain regional units have appeared again and again in the history of Palestine, and should be recognized. The broad divisions already noted are distinct: the coastal plains, the central hill lands, the Rift Valley, the plateaux of Transjordan and the desert.

The coastal plains stretch for a distance of about 200 km from the borders of Lebanon to Gaza, interrupted by Mt Carmel in the N. To the N{N North, northern} of it, the plain of Asher runs for 40 km to the ancient Ladder of Tyre, where the Galilean hills crowd close to the coast. It played no part in the life of Israel, but to the SE of it the Valley of Jezreel and plain of Esdraelon have been of major significance. Stretching for 50 km into the interior and some 20 km at its widest, this formed the main road from Egypt to Damascus and the N. Along it were situated the strategic centres of Megiddo, Jezreel and Beth-shan, famous in many of Israel’s wars (Jdg. 5; 7:1; 1 Sa. 29:1; 31:12) and the apocalyptic site of the future (Rev. 16:16). S{S South, southern} of Carmel, which shelters the small plain of Dor, is the plain of Sharon with its five great Philistine strongholds of Ekron, Ashdod, Ashkelon, Gath and Gaza, merging E{E East, eastern; Elohist} into the hill lands of the Shephelah, a buffer between Israel and Philistia. These hills were once heavily wooded with sycamores (1 Ki. 10:27; 2 Ch. 1:15; 9:27) and crossed transversely by narrow valleys which witnessed the early struggles of Israel from the times of the Judges to David, notably Aijalon (Jos. 10:10-15; 1 Sa. 14:31); Sorek (Jdg. 16), and Elah (1 Sa. 17:1-2).

The Central Hills run some 300 km from N{N North, northern} Galilee to Sinai, made up of interlocking hills and plateaux. In the S{S South, southern}, Judah has gently undulating folds except in the E{E East, eastern; Elohist}, where the deeply dissected chalky relief of the Wilderness of Judah, or Jeshimon, descends steeply to the Rift Valley. This Judaean plateau runs N{N North, northern} into the hill country of Ephraim with its easy transverse passages, but to the N{N North, northern} the hills of Samaria decrease gently from the Judaean heights of over 1,000 m to an average of just over 300 m in the central basin, in which are situated the biblical sites of Gibeah, Shalem, Shechem and Sychar. Above it tower the heights of Ebal (945 m) and Gerizim (890 m). Together with other fertile basins, Samaria was exposed to outside influences, and its faith early corrupted. N{N North, northern} of the plain of Esdraelon lies Galilee, divided into S{S South, southern} or lower Galilee, which has a similar landscape to the lands of Samaria, and N{N North, northern} or upper Galilee, where the mountains reach over 900 m. A number of basins, notably Nazareth, provide easy passage and rich cultivation between the coast and the Lake area, densely settled in our Lord’s day.

Slicing across Palestine for over 100 km, the Jordan follows the great Rift Valley. Its N{N North, northern} sector is occupied also by the lakes Huleh and Galilee, surrounded by high mountains, notably Hermon, the source of the Jordan (Dt. 3:9; 4:48). Below the basin of Huleh, the Jordan has cut through the basaltic dam that once blocked the depression in a gorge to enter the lake Tiberias or Sea of Galilee 200 m below sea-level. Beyond it the river Yarmuk adds its waters to the Jordan and the valley gradually widens S{S South, southern} towards the Dead Sea trough. S{S South, southern} of the cliffs of ÔAin Khaneizer commences the Arabah, stretching 160 km to the Gulf of Aqabah, a desert dominated by the great wall of the Transjordan tableland. W{W West, western} stretches the desolate hilly relief of the central Negeb and its steppe plains, towards Beersheba. E{E East, eastern; Elohist} over the edge of the Transjordan plateaux extend a series of regions well known in Bible times: the tableland of Bashan dominated E{E East, eastern; Elohist} by the great volcanic caves of Jebel Druze; Gilead situated in a huge oval dome 55 km by 40 km wide and famed for its forests (Je. 22:6; Zc. 10:10); the level steppes of Ammon and Moab; and S{S South, southern} of the Zered valley (Dt. 2:13; Is. 15:7) the faulted and tilted block of Edom with its impregnable strongholds. Beyond to the E{E East, eastern; Elohist} and the S{S South, southern} are the deserts, tablelands of rock and sand, blasted by the hot winds. See also *Jordan, *Negeb, *Sharon, *Zin. For archaeology of Palestine, see *Archaeology and individual sites, for history, see *Canaan, *Israel, *Judah, *Philistines, etc.